Des Rusk has long been one of those quietly essential figures working quietly behind the scenes, well-liked and respected across the different circles that make up our small New Zealand fashion industry. Last month he returned to the spotlight, of sorts, with Longform – his new brand that launched at the end of June with a ‘foundation collection’ and a commitment to a slower cycle.

Des has genuine industry mana. He worked for many years at Wall Fabrics, a key point of contact for many local designers (buying fabrics is an important step in the design process), and earlier had a stint as a lecturer at AUT’s fashion school. In the late-2000s he ran his own namesake menswear brand, known for its casual tailoring (he once collaborated on a capsule range with Barkers).

Like that earlier brand, his new venture is all about everyday dressing but this time it’s for everyone – well-made, minimalist, unisex staples crafted from ZQ-certified merino wool, with roots in traditional workwear. Think of the clothes you really wear: there are T-shirts, boxy and classic, smart sweatpants, two pairs of semi-tailored trousers, a tailored jacket and a really great hoodie.

The press notes describe the brand as “not nostalgic or referential”, instead being all about wearability and the tactile. But I know that all designers have references and inspirations that inform their perspective, whether for a brand or their own way of dressing. That’s why I started this column! So of course I had to ask Des to share his five key reference points – and they’re as clever and cool as I knew they would be.

Yohji Y3 image and Yohji Yamamoto by Terry Jones

I was gifted this book many years ago by my former tutor, colleague and good friend Linda Jones, and was drawn to this image right away. I have long been into the notion of a harmonious tension in fashion and this image evokes that for me – in silhouette, texture and play.

Linda would often say to her students (and me), “where’s the drama”, and while the drama may vary at times, this image is always on my wall, and those words often in my head.‍

High Street/Vulcan Lane in the late 90s, early/mid 2000s

My older brother would take me on day trips to High Street where we’d visit stores like Workshop, World and Zambesi, and where I got my first exposure to international brands like Ann Demeulemeester, Costume National and Comme des Garçons. 

I became a regular visitor from then on, initially as a fashion design student and then while working at Little Brother and Crane Brothers. It was a hub for fashion in New Zealand at that time which sparked a real interest in it for me, and was a big reason why I chose to study design.

Wool

I used to always start with designing outerwear garments, in particular woolen pieces. I’ve also spent the last 14 years supplying wool to designers and have come across some beautiful examples of woolen fabrics.

Given my background has been in menswear, wool has always been a cornerstone to my own wardrobe and inspiration for designing, whether it be a luxe pile wool coating, the utilitarian nature of a gabardine or the supreme hand-feel of merino – its versatility always provides a returning point of inspiration.

Ametora: How Japan Saved American style

From the obsession with American Ivy League style and workwear, to finding pride in their own home-grown designers, this book is an amazing account of the evolution of Japanese fashion and culture in the post war era. It also accounts for how influential Japanese textile and garment manufacturing has been, and how these skills and expertise became revered around the world. 

Workwear is a constant form of inspiration for me, and this book is a go to for both the historical references, and the transformative impact Japan has had on this style, and many others.

Navy

Both as an alternative and partner to black (which I wear often), I am also always drawn to navy blue. Whether it be a tension breaker, or a base for a different unique story, its versatility has so many possibilities and there would seldom be an outfit I wear, or collection I design, that doesn’t have a strong navy presence.