When I first started planning this new fashion column – asking interesting people for five style references that have helped define their wardrobe, work and style perspective – a few names immediately came to mind. People who I knew would have lists that were generous, educational and a combo of fashion nerd, art obsession and pop culture junkie.

One of them was Jimmy D designer James Dobson, whose nonconformist, creative, dark-humoured approach to fashion, beauty and business I’ve admired for years – from early collections that I loved but was definitely not cool enough to wear to his cult boutique Children of Vision in St Kevin’s Arcade, the Beauty Benders platform to today’s Pōneke era and recent retrospective exhibition at The Dowse.

I have a Jimmy D dripping ‘Gloom Rules’ sticker on my fridge (I think it’s from a 2013 collection that referenced Bret Easton Ellis and a line from Less than Zero: “Above the sink, on the mirror, someone's written in big black letters ‘Gloom Rules’”), and his shows and collections have introduced me to music and artists. James and Jimmy D have had a clear point of view from the very beginning.

So when I heard he was launching a new collection, featuring a print from Ōtepoti-based artist Priscilla Rose Howe and a warped photo print taken by his great-great-grandfather, I knew it was the perfect opportunity to ask him to share his enduring ‘inspirations’. Of course, he didn’t disappoint, offering a list that spans art, film, beauty, music and deep fashion lore.

Gregg Araki

Gregg Araki has been an ongoing reference since my teens when I was first introduced to his films – most notably the three films that make up what’s referred to as the Teen Apocalypse Trilogy. They’re all largely set in LA and I’m always drawn to these depictions of the hyper glossy, vacuous world of Los Angeles – a veneer that slowly gives way to reveal its dark and seedy underbelly (Bret Easton Ellis is someone else I love that deals with similar themes).

Aside from the fashion being 90s perfection, they’re also stories of searching for connection, finding it and its inevitable loss. I love a contrast when I’m designing (high vs low, romance vs darkness) and on that front there’s an endless supply of inspiration in these films.

The artist Priscilla Rose Howe that I just collaborated with on my new collection is also obsessed with Gregg Araki films, we bonded HARD over that and I think you can see that in the print we created.

Ann-Sofie Back show

When I had my store Children of Vision we stocked a variety of international brands alongside my own, and one of the perks was getting to go to a few Paris and London fashion weeks. I think we were a bit of a novelty over there, and designers were kind of intrigued to meet a buyer from New Zealand that represented brands like Bernhard Willhelm and Rad Hourani.

One of my favourite ever shows I have attended was the Ann-Sofie Back AW 2010 show at London Fashion Week. She was among a few emerging designers supported by Top Shop who provided the oh-so-London venue of a giant concrete bunker. When the show started the lights flicked on with such ferocity the whole venue was kind of hazy with bright white light. The music was an intense mash up of screamo-emo-pop and the models walked super fast in ensembles inspired by the immersive gaming world of Second Life.

I had goosebumps. Any show I’ve ever done, or am yet to do endeavors to reach the dizzying heights of this runway.

Film photography

I studied photography at University and even though by the end of my degree I decided I didn’t want to be a photographer, I still always refer to photography as “my baby”… whatever that means. And I’m definitely no photography purist but I do love film… I love shooting film, I love film photographers like Ann Shelton, Nan Goldin, Peter Peryer, William Eggleston (etc!) and I just love the LOOK of a film photo – the grain of a photo just takes me back to the magic of the darkroom. I used to even just love the smell of a fresh roll of film when you pop the canister lid. Film is so sexy.

Madonna’s Ray of Light Album

I bought this CD (!) for my first solo, young adult, overseas trip with friends to Singapore and Malaysia (courtesy of my first year of student loan course related cost payments). I queued up the title song on my Discman (!) so that it played during takeoff and landings on flights and listened to the whole album obsessively on every bus ride of that entire holiday. It was the perfect amalgamation of trip-hop that I loved with just good ole gay pop. It’s a vibe that is so intensely nostalgic for me, but kind of still quite futuristic too, and I hear this album’s influence in FKA Twigs new album and in artists like Addison Rae and I’m so here for that.

Fecal Matter / Matieres Fecales

I’m not sure how I stumbled across this duo, but I do know that after I saw their video for US Vogue’s Extreme Beauty series, I was OBSESSED with them. I love their commitment to a strong aesthetic, their fearlessness to be themselves wherever and whenever and their mantra of "Provoke Society".

I was obviously inspired by them to glue stringy tracks of synthetic hair to my head (on occasion) and I never feel more powerful and weirdly sexy than when I do. Their makeup is also a huge inspiration to Beauty Benders, the insta/TikTok account I run with my friend Andrey that’s all about degendering beauty and encouraging self expression through makeup.

One day I want to be at a dinner party with them and Rick Owens. Also Rose from Matieres Fecales is a New Zealander, so that’s cool.