This story is part of the Ensemble Wellington edit, thanks to WellingtonNZ

As someone who’s travelled the world practising various wellness trends (from enemas and fasting in Thailand through to IV drips in LA, cryotherapy in NY and hypnotherapy in Sydney), the idea of visiting Wellington for the first time since 2020 seemed ripe with possibility. 

In Tāmaki Makaurau, infrared saunas, contrast treatments, IV vitamin infusions and other new modalities are currently enjoying a post-pandemic explosion. What could I, an eternal student in the school of wellness, expect to find in our capital city?

I (forgive the expression) did my own research before visiting, which involved extensive grilling of people I respect, surveying of locals and expats and deep dives on travel blogs. What I discovered is that while Pōneke is light on the latest fads and trends, many of their wellbeing spaces have been key pillars of the community for years. 

It’s an unsurprising revelation, when you consider that Wellington’s the home of organic farming pioneers Common Sense Organics along with many artisanal small batch food producers, from Fix and Fogg to Wellington Chocolate Factory and Garage Project (all brands that play a key role in any wellbeing practice, imo).

Herewith, some of the recommendations I tried and loved.

Tory Urban Retreat

Auckland-based Megan May from Little Bird recommended this, describing it as “a Wellington institution”. Strangely, upon arrival in Wellington many people I spoke to had never been. “I’ve always wanted to”, I heard several times. 

The main focus is the large Finnish sauna and cold plunge pool (pictured above). Absolute heaven in Wellington’s legendarily inclement climate. The sauna is open to men on Monday, women on Tuesday, and mixed genders the remaining days of the week. 

Going nude in a women’s Korean spa in LA was honestly one of the most empowering things I’ve ever done, but LA is a big city where I know no one. To be fair, I only know about three people in Wellington but I’ve had a double mastectomy and being nude amongst men isn’t my cup of kombucha, so I booked it out for a private session and went with a friend instead. 

I am obsessed with hot cold therapy but my friend had never tried it. As we walked in off the street, through the tardis like changing room and out the other side, we audibly gasped. The space is incredibly zen yet amazingly unpretentious. If everyone who’s never been there knew what tranquillity lay behind the doors I imagine bookings would be hard to come by. 

We flitted between sauna and plunge pool in line with our rhythms and preferences, gossiping or lying in comfortable silence when these found us in the same place. Tory Urban Retreat make all their own kombucha and an ice-cold mango brew helped bring my body temperature down in time for a massage with Alexandra, a therapist and yoga teacher whose studio Now Breathe I had also heard great things about. 

Unsurprisingly for a yoga teacher, breath formed an important part of the massage, as she encouraged me to relax and breathe through the tension as we worked together to ease it through my body. 

Tory Urban Retreat also offers other modalities I’m keen on; floatation, red light therapy and a hyperbaric oxygen chamber. Having tried floatation before (love it as an incredible relaxation tool, but hate drying my hair) and spent time in an oxygen chamber to help recovery post surgery, I opted for red light therapy. After all, if it’s good enough for Jean Smart’s character on Hacks! 

Red light therapy is, as you’d expect, light therapy but instead of ageing you like sunlight, it works to wake up your mitochondria (energy cells in the body) when environmental toxins and stress may have made them a bit sleepy and sluggish. 

Plus, you have the therapeutic wellbeing benefits of light without any UV rays. I don’t want to fall into the trope of making fun of Wellington’s weather, but I will say if I lived there I would become a regular practitioner of it.

Wellington Apothecary

Another Wellington institution, this has had a steadily growing presence in Cuba Street long before personalised tea blends were a thing. Their herbal blends are definitely there to stay, and you’ll find a herbalist happy to pour you a (compostable) cup while you browse the rest of the range. 

Everything they sell has been considered for the purity of its ingredients, the circularity of its packaging, its impact on the planet and its efficacy. Products range from the practical (deodorants, vitamins, moisturisers) through to the woo woo. 

I had an in depth discussion with co-owner Jemma in-store around lucid dreaming; a practice I’m deeply curious about and one that they have products to support. 

I had heard rumours all the way from Tāmaki about their facials and I managed to book in for one with Stephanie. It felt at once like both a facial and reiki. Utterly relaxing; more a deeply relaxing meditation than any other facial I’ve had and my skin absolutely loved the aroha that was bestowed upon it. 

Other places of note

I desperately wanted to do a yoga class at Awhi with Jase Te Patu, who I’ve followed for a long time, but alas his reduced teaching class (he is doing increased mahi in the space of mindfulness, particularly within te ao Māori-based kaupapa) didn’t align with my short trip.

I also wanted to do a sunrise class at Space yoga to take in the views of the city (and I absolutely will next time).

And I’m already planning my next trip so I can dine at Graze, a restaurant committed to sustainability and changing the industry via the passion and talent of chef Max Gordy.