This story is part of Ensemble's fashion week coverage, supported by Viaduct Harbour
Asking any designer how it feels to wrap a runway presentation at fashion week is like asking someone how they felt on their wedding day.
Stepping out from backstage to take a bow (or a classic Kiwi humble wave) only lasts a few seconds, but the flurry of emotion, adrenaline and relief that hits all at once is a surreal high. A collection showcase is the result of months, sometimes years of work; countless late nights, breakdowns and breakthroughs, finally presented to a crowd of loved ones and VIPs. Then suddenly, it's all over.
As an audience member, seeing the visionary behind the beauty you've just witnessed down the runway is immensely gratifying, even if you only steal a glimpse (we missed you, James Bush!). Each designer has a unique approach to their moment in the spotlight and of course, dresses in their own honed style.
Industry heavyweights tend to have uniforms we know to expect (like Kate Sylvester in her suits and sneakers), while emerging designers dress to make a first impression, and some designers use the visibility to show support for other creatives.
Below, we asked a few who showed at NZ Fashion Week: Kahuria to share the thought that went into their outfits on the big day.
Kathryn Wilson
"I wore a cerise pink bow Le’Dore blouse from Sweepstakes Winners designed by our very own creative director Julia Ford! I loved being in this and will be getting one in every colour. I paired this with a wide-leg white pant and pink 'Mandy' heels form our summer collection. I wanted to wear something colourful and bright to celebrate our theme of the show being 'Colour my Love’ and to support Julia and her beautiful designs.
It was a wonderful moment for the team to share at the end of the show. I requested the entire KW backstage team, hair, makeup and head office and retail staff to come out with me to acknowledge their contribution to the show and the collections. I loved seeing everyone's happy faces in the audience and it was a special surprise to have my daughters Lola and Stella bring flowers up to the front of the stage… made me teary with happiness."
Kate Sylvester
Sandra Tupu, Flying Fox
"I wore woollen pants and a woollen/corduroy jacket that included recycled picnic blanket fabric from my Tatau collection and an eco-printed silk T-shirt and handknitted NZ wool scarf both from my Afi vao collection.
I wanted to show that my clothes are not gender specific and that Tatau, despite being my previous collection can stand up today as special timeless pieces. Walking out was an extremely proud moment, I was hugely grateful to be showing at NZFW Kahuria. I had a very funny moment when my old brogues started to slide a little during my wave!"
Rory William Docherty
"My 'take a bow' moment was a bit surreal, incredibly emotional. Full of gratitude and relief. I wore our classic collared shirt in Japanese paper touch cotton. It's a go to for me - I have it in every size and change it up depending on the silhouette I feel like. I don't iron it, I like the crumpled paper texture, it's easy to work in.
I wore it with our first Rework jean, created from a carefully sourced pair of vintage jeans, chosen for their unique wear achieved over time. The overall look is a take on a classic - white shirt and jeans - with nuance. The shoes are the same as the ones in the show, handmade Moroccan babouche."
Bobby Campbell Luke (Ngāti Ruanui / Taranaki), Campbell Luke
"I wore a Sweepstakes Winners painter shirt by Julia Ford and I made my pants; shoes are Doc Marten Jorge mules. I didn’t think about [my outfit] very much until maybe two days before, I just loved wearing another Māori designer and to represent them as well.
This moment felt like an opportunity to acknowledge those who have supported me, we gave flowers to Kiri Nathan, Ata Te Kanawa, Pieter Stewart, and lastly my Mum."
Juliette Hogan
"I'm wearing our 'Fancy' T-shirt & 'Boyfriend' pant in luxe suiting. These are my dream pieces, so chic, hardwearing and comfortable.
Being backstage is a lot of hard work and I need to be in something that looked good but also felt good. The show's not about me…. It’s a celebration of all the hard work that the entire team has put in. I’ve never been one to spend more than a few seconds poking my head out from backstage at the end of a show and that’s always been the way, that’s enough for me!"
Nicole Hadfield, Oosterom
"With a 5am start I needed something easy that I could throw on. The volume almost acts as a protective cocoon. I'm wearing our crinkle silk skivvy, the perfect base layer for when the weather has no idea what it's doing. Over top I wore our new 'Harriet' sweater vest in an incredibly cosy organic cotton. I've estimated we will only make three of these in each size, that's the reality of using deadstock fabric!
I borrowed this pair of custom 'Annalise' trousers in black wool from a friend - our new version this season are the 'Chloe' trousers which sit slightly lower on the waist. I finished off the look with a trusty pair of black Asics Kayano, comfort is key. Now that I think back, the combination of silk, cotton and wool just sums me up in a nutshell really.
The show was a chance for me to reveal what Oosterom is all about, so I felt a combination of accomplishment, adrenalin and lack of sleep. The lights are so bright you can't really see much. I just waved awkwardly and blew a kiss towards where I knew my family were sitting. It's all over very quickly."
Cecilia Kang, Cecilia Kang Couture
Tess McCone, Su`Mar
