"Less is more," says Emma Peters, makeup artist and founder of local beauty brand Aleph. It's a mantra that has guided her through decades of beauty eras, from supermarket burgundy dye in the 80s to the skin-first philosophy she champions both personally and professionally today.

For her, "beauty is ultimately a feeling, not just a look", and that glow-from-within ethos shapes everything from her daily routine to the products she creates.

Emma launched her clean beauty brand in 2018, after years working as a makeup artist; skills that she put to good use at New Zealand Fashion Week Kahuria last month where she was the key artist for shows from Untouched World and Taylor.

What is your earliest memory of beauty?

I was five-years-old, standing at Niagara Falls, clutching my very first lost tooth. My parents told me that if I threw it over the falls, the tooth fairy would be especially generous. So I did, and with the money I received, I marched straight out and bought my very first makeup kit. It felt like magic. That tiny plastic palette of colours sparked a fascination that never left me.

How has your look evolved over the years?

It most certainly has been a journey. From supermarket burgundy dye in the 80s (hello, Glint!) and crimped bangs to the auburn perms and terracotta lips of the early 90s, each era brought its own beauty signature. 

Grunge hit with chokers, pale skin and barely-there brows, followed by a Meg Ryan moment with light brown lips that stuck around for years. The 2000s were all about dramatic blue/black bobs, rocker eyes and a bold fuchsia pout, which upgraded, of course, to fuchsia/black hair.

A brief blonde-and-frosty-pink toner phase, countless Halloween party looks, and effortless mum-hair updos of the 2010s led to today: a classic red lip at Christmas, and a lifetime of iconic looks.

Who are your biggest beauty influences? 

Growing up, Olivia Newton-John was everything to me. From the ethereal magic of Xanadu to the bold red lip in Grease, and then the electric blue and fuchsia moments of the mid-80s, she captured every side of beauty I adored. I was also heavily influenced by the icons of that era, Madonna and Cyndi Lauper, especially. Their fearless self-expression gave me permission to play, and I’d spend hours recreating their looks on my (very patient) stepsister.

These days, my influences have shifted toward a more refined, skin-first approach – but the spirit of creativity and transformation I learned back then is still at the heart of everything I do.

What was the first beauty product you fell in love with?

Pink pearl lipstick.

What’s the first fragrance you ever owned?

Loves Baby Soft followed closely by Colors of Benetton.

What fragrance do you wear now?

I have a couple of favourites: Apartment by Abel and Bois de Balincourt by Maison Louis Marie. I’m drawn to scents that are complex yet subtle, and created with transparency. Fragrance made without synthetic ingredients is essential to me, not just for the experience, but to minimise exposure to potential hormone disruptors. Beauty should never come at the cost of wellbeing.

What is your ethos when it comes to beauty? Has this changed over time?

My ethos has always been less is more. I’ve always gravitated toward a natural application, using products strategically to enhance rather than mask. I don’t enjoy the feeling of a heavily made-up face, and I don’t feel like me when I’m wearing one.

That said, when it comes to dress-ups, it’s a different story. I absolutely love a good fancy dress party – there’s nothing more fun than stepping into character and going all in.

Do you follow beauty trends?

It depends on how you define a trend. If we’re talking about seasonal shade shifts or viral looks, I tend to sit those out. I prefer to wear what feels right for me, what suits my mood, my skin, and my sense of self rather than following something just because it’s “on trend.” Fast-moving trends can quickly feel overdone.

But when it comes to deeper, more meaningful shifts – like the move toward clean, multi-functional beauty – I’ve been ahead of the curve. Long before it was widely embraced, I was advocating for high-performance formulas made with integrity: skincare-infused, consciously crafted, and good for both people and planet.

Are there any beauty looks you would love to try that you haven't yet?

I feel pretty content with my own beauty look at the moment. It reflects who I am and what feels good on my skin. But creatively, there are always more looks in me waiting to be brought to life, just often on other faces. I love exploring new textures, colour stories, and concepts through others, it’s one of the most rewarding parts of being a makeup artist.

Beauty is inextricably tied to youth in our culture. What has been your approach to ageing, personally?

I think this is something most women grapple with in one way or another. For me, it’s less about wanting to look younger and more about nostalgia, longing for those beauty eras that held meaning. A deep, dark nail instantly takes me back to the 90s and the days of Chanel’s Rouge Noir… There's something about beauty as a portal to memory that I find really powerful.

When it comes to ageing, I prefer a proactive approach over the idea of “anti-ageing,” which feels a little absurd, as we’re all moving through time. I focus on practices that support the skin and body to move through that process in the most vibrant, aligned way possible. It’s about honouring change, not resisting it.

Do you have any daily beauty must-haves? What’s your beauty product philosophy?

Of course I use Aleph, not just because it’s my brand, but because I’ve formulated each product to be exactly what I want to use. For me, beauty should enhance the skin both instantly and over time. My everyday essentials are the One Reset/Restore Moisture Cream, Concealer/Foundation, Cheek/Lip Tint in Grounded, and our Lift/Lengthen Mascara. These create a versatile base that I build on, depending on how I feel each day.

Beyond Aleph, I reach for Tronque’s body butter, it’s a staple, and I always have Maison Louis Marie hand cream nearby. My beauty philosophy is about intention: using fewer, better products that work with your skin, not against it.

What is your most sentimental beauty product?

At the back of my makeup drawer, there’s a tiny pot of shimmery eyeshadow I’ve carried with me from house to house, and country to country. I bought it at Bloomingdale’s when I was 12, on my very first trip to New York. I remember being completely enchanted by the kaleidoscope of colours at the counter, and that was the moment I first thought, one day, I want to create my own brand. That little pot has followed me ever since. It’s a reminder of the spark that started it all.

What is the most important beauty lesson you’ve learnt?

That less is more, and beauty is ultimately a feeling, not just a look. The longer I’ve worked in this space, the more I’ve come to value subtlety and intention. When you feel good in your own skin – balanced, connected, at ease – it shows. You don’t need layers of product to be beautiful. You just need the right tools to reflect how you already feel on the inside.

What beauty item or look makes you feel like your true authentic self?

Healthy-looking skin, a bit of tint on the cheeks, and defined lashes, just enough to feel fresh without feeling overly done. I tend to stick with the basics that let my skin breathe and feel good throughout the day. It’s always a nice little moment when I catch my reflection and think, ‘oh, my skin looks great today’. That glow, that ease; that’s when I feel most like myself.

What’s on your current beauty wishlist? 

BBL Broadband Light, $599. Something I’ve been looking into with interest, I love anything that improves cellular health.

Tronque Firming Body Butter, $130. Beautifully nourishing and luxe.

Photo Bio Modulation, from $95. Great for overall health, wellbeing and mood and amazing for the skin.

Augustinus Bader Eye Patches, $43. Particularly great after a long flight or if I need to do some filming.

The One Reset/Restore Moisture Cream, $129. The best all rounder, one and done moisturiser with all the benefits!